Duncan’s Cove

DUNCAN’S COVE

Topo By Tristan Cleveland

This spot was first developed back in the 90s and was documented in this 2002 guide (pages 11-13). Some of the old problems were destroyed and some new problems have since appeared. There are still old problems to be re-established, and probably new ones to be set.
Access Issue: To avoid people's private property, please walk to Chebucto Head and then follow the shore to this climbing spot. It is not a long walk.

0. Retro Night V0 star

Kick off on the ledge beside the large crack, traverse left until the holds vanish, and then top out. A recreational warm-up problem, but not ideal for beginners due to the risk of falling. 🚫

0. T-Tree Special V2 star

Start below the highest point and climb the slab. For a V1 variation, take the obvious exit after about 10 feet to avoid the scary top.

The Scoop

Not to be mistaken for the other Scoop

1. The Scoop V2 star

Ascend the concave side of the boulder and over the highest section. This problem was listed as a favorite in the original 2002 guidebook. 📚

2. Little Crack V3 star

Use a balancy move to get off the ground and follow the crack to the top. This problem was overlooked as a favorite in the 2002 guidebook, which is a shame. 🥇 (FA J. Graham)

3. Sesame Street V1 star

Start hanging from the ledge and climb the arret. A nice vertical challenge. 🎢

0. Chasing Elmo V1 star

Traverse from left to right and around the corner, then top out on the layback flake. Keep moving! ↔️

4. Big Bird SDS V2 star

Begin hanging from the crimps (or sitting if you're tall enough) and head upward. Reach for the sky! ☁️

0. Debar SDS V3 star

Start with both hands on the ledge and look for a spot for a heel hook. Make a big move up to the triangular divot. The first move is cool, but then the problem is essentially done. Consider it lock-off practice. 🔒

0. Rebar SDS V4 star

Use the same starting beta as Debar, but exclude the enormous ledge above the triangular divot and head right towards the overhanging rock (FA Ben Rose 2020. Named in honor of Robar Direct, a V7 destroyed when the boulder split in two.)(include the ledge for a potential V3 variation). Top out to the right of the overhang. It has a deadly landing and an elimination, but if you take it as it is, there's a problem here to love. 🌹

Book Boulder

Find this wall in the gorge 30 feet South of The Scoop.

5. The Book of Mobeta SDS V3 star

Start sitting on the ledge on the right and use the good foot holds and bad crimps to stand. Exclude the arret, and follow the crimps to the top. 🏆 (FA Ben Rose 2020)