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BLACK BROOK BOULDERS
Topo By Sebastian Pacey-Smith
World class bouldering deep in the heart of Southern New Bruwnswick. Two talus fields on the North slope of a 100m tall hill. Ignored for years by local rope climbers until Sebastian Pacey-Smith moved home from Squamish and set out to find the hardest climbing in New Brunswick and recognized the incredible potential in 2022
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Problems 15

7 5 star 0 0 %

V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10 V11 V12 V13 V13


Grades V6 - V12

Seasons
On the North Slope of a 100m tall hill. All day shade should provide long productive shoulder season climbing. Winter is likely to prove inhospitable due to north face snow accumulation.

Drive 276 min
Approach 400 m, 8 mins

Lower Talus

The first two boulders encountered on the approach
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1. Project SDS V? star

Start sitting and utilize the good crimp inside the overhang. Climb up the face to victory! 🌟
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2. The Doors of Durin SDS V6 star

Tackle the mini roof and continue up the face for a fun adventure. A great introduction to kneebar climbing!
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3. Project SDS V? star

Sit start and climb the short face with determination. 💪       
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4. Moria V7 star

Begin low between the two boulders and climb out using gorgeous edges. 🪞

Feedback Roof

A beautiful mini roof feature located in the talus 20m west of the first boulders.
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5. Project SDS V? star

Take on the face and conquer it! 💯                       
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6. Feedback SDS V12*unconfirmed star

Sit start with both hands on the horizontal break. Powerful compression moves lead you out of the beautiful roof feature to a challenging topout. A thuggish and aesthetic experience. 💥

Main Boulder

50m uphill from the Lower Talus is the crown jewel of the area. An impressive world class boulder with a stunning scooped face covered in perfect crimps.
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7. The Mote in God's Eye SDS V9 star
Sebastian Pacey-Smith 2022Sebastian Pacey-Smith 2022 - VerticalSebastian Pacey-Smith 2022 - First Ascent

Start matched on the obvious good crimp, tackle the crux start, and enjoy the beautiful crimp sequence. Commit to the slab topout. 🏆 (FA Sebastian Pacey-Smith 2022)
8. The Gripping Hand SDS V10 star

Climb The Mote in God's Eye to the arete and then follow arete to finish at the apex. Stunning line!
9. The Mega Project SDS V? star

Climb the entire scooped feature up to the high point. Who knows, this might be the next V17 candidate - calling Daniel Woods! 📞
10. Lucifer's Hammer Low Start Project SDS V12/14? star

There are two options for low starts into Lucifer's Hammer: one looks about V12, while the other seems closer to V14. Choose your challenge! 😈🔨
11. Lucifer's Hammer SDS V10 star

Begin low on the obvious rail and head skyward up the stunning overhanging scoop on amazing holds. This problem is as good as it gets. 🌄
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12. Starswarm SDS V11 star

Start with your left hand on the low rail and your right hand on the low crimp just above. Desperate moves compressing up the short face using face crimps and arete slopers. Not the prettiest problem, but consistently challenging. 🧩

Chirality Boulder

A large boulder 20m east of the Main Boulder home to some fun problems.
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13. Chirality SDS V6 star
Sebastian Pacey-Smith 2022Sebastian Pacey-Smith 2022 - Vertical

Begin on the good triangular incut, gain the left arete, and then compress or dyno to the top. A dynamic delight! 🦘
14. Mirror Dimension SDS V8 star

Climb the right arete for a straightforward ascent. 📈       
15. Highpoint V7 star

Start matched on the huge triangular flake and climb the slopey arete overhanging a scary slab landing. A thrilling experience! 😱