Corn and Bung

CORN AND BUNG

Exposed boulders on a hillside with an iconic view. Almost everything is quality and many classics.

Problems 27
11 2 2 7 %
V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10 V11 V12 V13 V13

Grades V0 - V10

Seasons

Situated on a hilltop exposed in all directions. Best in spring and fall, but can be quite decent in the summer with a breeze if you time the shade.

Drive 45 min
Approach 250 m, 5 mins

Upper Boulder

An iconic giant boulder fully exposed on the hillside. The top isn't flat so be careful up there...

1. Jackalopes Can Kill V4 star

Start with underclings, reach for a pinch, and climb straight up. Watch out for that tricky landing! 😬

0. Elephant Collector SDS V5 star

This eliminate problem is morpho-tastic! Sit start at the lowest corner, pull onto underclings, and head straight up to a flat ledge. Finish with an easy slab. 🚫Jackalopes and Jackpot are off-limits. Embrace the challenge with a rule-packed boulder problem! 😄 (FA Ghislain Losier 2001)

2. Musth SDS V5 star

Begin as for Elephant Collector, but shimmy right using underclings into Jackalopes. Pad up until you hit the point of no return – you'll know when! 😏

2. Jackpot V0 star

Climb straight up the arête with lovely large holds. The perfect rock climb! 🌬️ Airy! First-time V0 climber? Be warned, the down climb is trickier than it looks...

4. Cornholio SDS V4 star

Nail the crux start with a right hand on a thin crimp and a left hand pinching a large rail. A perfect morpho counterbalance to Elephant Collector—something for everyone! 🎉

5. It's a Disease SDS V8 star

Begin with your left hand on Resurrection start hold and your right hand on a side pull crimp. Climb left and connect with the jug on Cornholio. Explore the variations! 🔄 (FA Ghislain Losier 2004)

6. Resurrection SDS V8 star

Hold the low rail, power up to the corner, and dominate the arête. Pure rock bliss awaits you! 🤩 Mega classic! (FA Nick Sagar 2000)

7. Carbosaurus SDS V10 star

Merge Resurrection with The Whale's Back by exiting left. Be mindful of temperature's effect on your climb. 🌡️ (FA Scott Richardson 2012)

7a. Insurrection SDS V10 star

Connect Carbosaurus and Can't Trust Skinny People for a fun link-up! (FA Ben Smith 2014)

8. The Whale's Back V3 star

Starting on the blocky jug, slap the lip and push it to the limit. 💪 Press on, climber!

9. Can't trust skinny people V6 star

Kick off from the blocky jug, traverse left on a challenging, slopey lower rail all the way to the far left. Chilly temps are your friend here. ❄️

9a. Can't trust skinny people SDS V10 star

The sit-down start is a total enigma. 🤔 Zig thinks it's a V9. Can you crack the code? (FA G. Losier 2004, unrepeated)

10. Captain Hook SDS V5 star

Begin with your right hand pinching a vertical rail and your left hand on a low sloper. Pull up, hook some stuff, slap the lip, and embrace the technical arête climbing. One of the best around! 🌟

Lower Boulder

The lower boulder offers slightly more shelter in an alder grove.

11. Overdrive SDS V10 star

Crimp your way up the arête, but be aware it's been broken many times. 🤕 Unrepeated in its current state. (FA G. Losier 2000)

12. Piranha V5/6 star

Fire up from two flat crimps! 🔥

⚠️ Heads up: The large flake on Piranha is loose and flexing. It might break off soon, so climb with caution!

13. Joe Boxer SDS V6 star

Start on two crimps, engage your core to reach the corner, and then climb up blocky holds. Pre-taping your left hand before jamming it in the slot is a popular move. 🔗 Link-ups with Piranha: done and fun!

14. Memory Block SDS V2 star

Ascend the dihedral where the big block once lived.

15. White Cracker SDS V0 star

Scale the crack systems and aim for the top. 🎯

16. Razor's Edge V2 star

Grasp the large protrusion, mantel up to snag the quartz crimp, stand tall, and conquer the top. 💪

17. Dancing to the new Bolaro SDS V9 star

Initiate on the fantastic lower seam, traverse the twin seams on razor-sharp crimps to the corner jug, and link into Razor's Edge. Early exit variations for an easier challenge are available. 😎 (FA G. Losier 1999)

17a. The New Bolaro (early exit) SDS V7 star

Begin like Dancing to the New Bolaro, but make an early exit for a quicker challenge. 🏃‍♂️

18. Milking the Cow (full) SDS V7 star

For a full-value problem, sit low in the cave on fierce crimps and climb all the way up the arête. It's HARD! 💪 Typical variations shorten the climb.

18a. Milking the Cow (early exit) SDS V6 star

Try the high sit start and early exit to Milking the Cow for an easier time. It bypasses the tricky arête and the crux start. 🐄

19. Milking the Cow (Stand) V5 star

Stand start matched on the ledge, then brave the slopey arête with some tough moves. 😤

19a. Milking the Cow (stand, early exit) V4 star

Grab the ledge, execute an awkward mantel, and enjoy the laughs as tall climbers attempt it. 🦒 Avoids the hard-to-pad arête.

20. Taco Dish V3 star

Start matched on a jug, traverse slopers left, and top out at the high point. Surprisingly pumpy! 🌬️

21. A Momentary Lapse of Sanity SDS V5 star

Scale the crack and tackle the perilous topout. Stay safe up there! ⚠️