Sector 4 (The Slabs)

SECTOR 4 (THE SLABS)

The western end of Dover Island, dominated by tall walls and home to the iconic problem Exciter V7

Problems 23
8 4 2 0 %
V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10 V11 V12 V13 V13

Grades V0 - V10

Seasons

Exciter has great morning shade, but is often wet from spray until the sun dries it out. Too tall for manual drying. Look for calm oceans and winds from the north (rare in summer). Wind through the keyhole stays shaded much longer. Orgasmatron wall is higher up and gets less sea spray and still has excellent morning shade. The slabs bake in all day south facing sun.

Drive 47 min
Approach 900 m, 18 mins

Acrobat Mini-Roof

1. Acrobat SDS V7 star

Grab the seam and make a terrifying jump into the roof.

"Once you fully accept that you are going to bash your face into the roof, it's not so hard" - Rob Grandy

Leap with faith! 🦘 (FA G. Losier 2003)

Ocean Commotion Boulder

2. Spankey's Face SDS V1 star

Climb the face/corner. Conquer the angle! 📐

3. Spankey's Arête SDS V4 star

Tricky scrunchy start, then climb the arête on pleasant well-defined holds. Find your flow! 🌊

4. Grabba Slabba V1 star

Climb the slab. Take it one step at a time! 🚶

5. Ocean Commotion SDS V10 star

Starts on opposing sidepulls on the lower lip of the boulder. A very hard start with a left hand bump to face crimps, then traverse the low lip. Embrace the challenge of vanished starting feet, thanks to the ocean. Adapt, thrive, and enjoy! (FA G. Losier 2006 / Guillaume Richard 2023)

Tall Slabs

Many variations are possible on these low angle slabs. Only a few well defined lines as indicated.

6. Jane Doe V0 - V3 star

Climb the low angle slab. Many variations are possible along this 15m stretch of wall. Jane Doe is the best and most well-defined. Pick your path! 🛣️

7. Invisifoot V4 star

Climb the right face and left arête. Challenge yourself! 💥

8. Bowser's Tower V3 star

Up the high corner and left face. The best climb on the slabs wall. Soar to the top! 🦅

Exciter Boulder

A beautiful detached boulder at the end of the slabs

9. John Doe V4 star

Beautiful technical moves up a dead-vertical face. A committing move from a small foot feels exposed. Wonderful. Embrace the elegance! 💃

10. Decepticon V7 star

Climb the tall face. Cruxy with the hardest move near the top. Rise above it! 🌄

11. Exciter Right V-Project star

Start on left crimp on arête and left sidepull. Trust your grip! 🤲

12. Exciter V7 star

Left hand crimp, right hand undercling/pinch on right arête, pull a heel on and make cool moves into a high step crux, then up the face using both arêtes. Proud send.

13. Exciter SDS V9 star

Sit start deep under the roof with left hand on tiny crimp and right hand on slopey rail. Multiple powerful compression moves into Exciter. Super awesome 🚀 (FA G. Losier 2003)

14. The Wind Through the Keyhole V7 star

Start on the large rail. Tricky high step using face crimps, then transition to the arête for a high top out. (FA Ben Smith 2014)

End of Dover Slabs

A tall slab wall that marks the end of the bouldering on Dover Island

15. Nick's Slab V4 star

Up the high arching slab. Aim high! 🎯

16. Pocket Pool V1 star

Up the rather tall, knobby face opposite the left side of Exciter. Smooth sailing! ⛵

Orgasmatron Wall

This small wall is located at the top of the granite headland above the main Exciter Area (directly above Acrobat V7). It is also the most direct descent when sending Exciter.

17. The High Plateau V1 star

Glide up the curving crack on the sleek slab. Embrace the thrill as you conquer the fear, but remember, must not fall!

18. The Third Whale V7 star

Start on the left hand crimp, right hand side pull at waist height. Climb the improbably blank face into the disturbingly smooth arête. Committing top out.

19. Orgasmatron V0 star

Layback the off-width corner. Arguably the best V0 in NS. Looks great on Instagram. Snap the perfect shot! 📸

20. Blacksmith V6 star

Start both hands in the horizontal crack and climb up the slabby face with a cool high step. Originally a V9 dyno until national champ John Bowles used his big brain beta skills. 🧠 (FA Ghislain Losier 2004 - dyno)

21. Orange Crush V6 star

Climb the twin vertical seams. Double the fun! 🌟

22. Orange Juice SDS V1 star

Up the scoopy face 2m right of Orange Crush. Many variations suitable for novice climbers on this short low angle wall. Find your way! 🛤️

23. Orange You Glad It's Over V1 star

Up the crack on the right. Crack the code! 🔑