BOULDERING AREAS
MAP
A small boulder cluster right on the water in a sheltered location. Limited area.
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Problems 11

0 0 star 1 45 %

V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10 V11 V12 V13 V13


Grades V0 - V10

Seasons
South facing with great sun exposure. One of the very best winter climbing spots with a pure north wind on a sunny day. Quickly becomes unbearable as wind transitions to the west.

Drive 55 min
Approach 595 m, 12 mins

Low Tide Boulder

Small cube shaped boulder, majority of climbs require low tide
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1. Gerridae V2 star

Step across the gap from the Peggy's Cove side onto the seaside boulder and top out. Enjoy this fun, unpaddable problem at high tide. For a V4 low variation, start with a low horizontal seam during low tide only. 🌊
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2. Merman V1 star

Access this climb only an hour before or after low tide. On the seaside face of the seaside boulder, pull on the side pull jug, moving left and up. A true tidal challenge. 🌅
3. No Service SDS V2 star

Ascend the arête and top out into the bushes. The start is submerged at high tide, so plan accordingly. 🌿

Lip Traverse Boulder

Lowball lip traverses
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4. After the Rapture V4 star

Embark on a long traverse along the lip of the inland boulder from right to left, and top out around the corner. Prepare for a pumpy adventure. 💦
5. I Get By With a Little Kelp From My Friends V0 star

Begin as for After the Rapture, but go right and top out on in-cut sidepulls. While below the reasonable standards for a boulder problem, it's included for historical interest. 📜

Aftermath Cluster

The two main boulders of this limited area poking out of the forested hillside
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6. Big Dreamers V10 star

Begin on micro holds, with the crux being the initial pull-on. Execute a big move to a good hold, and make sure to have good spotters for this one! (FA Ben Smith 2013)
7. Juan SDS V5 star

Utilize the low crimp and arête to ascend up and onto the tall face of the beachside wall, left of the crack. Top out variations can go straight up the middle of the boulder, as for Big Dreamers. Aftermath boulder is off limits. 🏖️
8. Bird Turd V1 star

Climb the offwidth between Juan and Aftermath. Not exactly a boulder problem, it's more like an empty space between boulders. 🪨
9. Aftermath Low SDS V9 star

Starting from a full sit with a terrible low arête, climb up the overhanging face. Commit to the challenge! 💪
9a. Aftermath V9 star

Attempt the commonly done high start variation by using a pad stack or hover start from the sweet spot high on the left arête. Climb up the overhanging face. 🚀 (FA Ben Blakney 2003)
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10. Treehugger V4 star

Ascend the slab on the side of the Juan Boulder for a smooth climb.