Porcupine Fortress

PORCUPINE FORTRESS

Beautifully area for shoulder season climbing. Most of the path in is marked by red tape (see map) until you arrive at the well-worn local trail, at which point you should turn right. The climbing spot is just a few hundred metres further. (There is another climbing spot, Sideshow, at the entrance to the trail, just across the ditch on the left).

Access Issue: The landowner requests that we not climb there during deer hunting season, the last Friday of October to the first Saturday of December.

Problems 22
3 2 2 18 %
V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10 V11 V12 V13 V13

Grades V0 - V8

Seasons

A woodland with shelter from east wind (very uncommon). Best in the shoulder seasons.

Drive 55 min
Approach 500 m, 10 mins

Step Function Boulder

This set of boulders is visible to the left of the trail, just before arriving at the primary Porcupine Fortress Area.

1. Step Function V3 star

Start at the handle and the underclings. Use the arête on the left and the crack on the right and head straight up. Embrace the variety of holds and techniques as you ascend!

1. Heavy Side V4 star

Start from the jug and undercling on the bottom-right of the bulge. Reach straight up to the big crack and then transition into Step Function. Everything is in. Enjoy the combination of movements and explore the possibilities! 🔀

2. Log Rhythm V1 star

Start at the same handle and move rightwards under the overhang and upwards onto the slab. A solid problem for beginner climbers: long, tricky, and low-risk. Build your confidence and have fun on this accessible route! 🛠️

3. Algae Rhythm V0 star

Basic, easy climb. Perfect for warming up or beginners looking to hone their skills. 🎓

Giant Boulder Roof

The first striking feature in the main bouldering cluster. A cool roof feature with unique flakes

4. Don't Sneeze V4 star

Start with both hands in the seam and climb the roof feature on huge holds to the last jug, then drop off. Feel the excitement of the big moves and enjoy the process! 🙌

5. Dracula's Big Adventure V2 star

Climb the seam left to right and hop off at the end. Practice your technique and flow on this enjoyable traverse! 🔄

6. Tick Country V5 star

Start with both hands on jugs, throw up a committing toe jam, and reach back for a flat hold. Tricky and committing, spotters and good pads help. Embrace the challenge and conquer your fears! 🧊

The Quill Boulder

Directly opposite the Roof down the small hill

7. The Quill V0 star

Traverse the entire rail as it progressively takes you higher on wonderful, comfortable holds. One of the best V0s in Nova Scotia. Appreciate the journey and savor the experience! 🌟

8. The Wishing Well SDS V4 star

Reclaimed by the jungle. Hard start on a super low feature, grab the impossibly dirty lip. Test your determination and resilience on this wild and untamed route! 🌿

9. What's Dave's Problem SDS V1 star

Below modern standards for a boulder problem. Included for historical purposes. Reflect on the past and appreciate the evolution of the sport! 🕰️

The Masked Man Boulder

Directly beside The Quill Boulder

10. Masked Man SDS V8 star

Start sitting on the lower boulder compressing the low feature. Hard scrunchy move to crimp, committing throw to jug, then scary topout. Fantastic problem, but committing with an ankle-breaking landing. Push your limits and experience the thrill, but be mindful of safety! ⚠️ (FA. Zig, May 2002)

11. Qbert SDS V0 star

Climb the short corner. A straightforward climb to practice your skills and enjoy the movement! 📐

12. Quake V2 star

No hands start up the slab. This is much easier if you are tall enough to reach the top after the second move. (It is now cleaner than in the photo). Test your balance and enjoy the clean ascent! 🧹

13. Quandry V0 star

Dirty slab. (While the other three problems have been cleaned, this one hasn't yet). Tackle the grime and embrace the challenge! 🛢️

14. Quiche V1 star

Go straight up the slab or aim slightly to the right. Choose your own path and experience the freedom of climbing! 🌈

15. The Quiver SDS V4 star

Sit on the ledge, then up the mini dihedral. Avoid the hole and keep on rockin'!

The Anchor Chain Boulder

A large boulder furthest west in the cluster sitting in the swamp

16. Anchor Chain SDS V4 star

Start sitting with crack and crimps and follow the left-leaning crack to the top. Enjoy the interesting holds and challenge yourself on this engaging route! ⬅️

16a. Floating Fortress SDS V7 star

Eliminate. Climb Anchor Chain to the bulbous undercling and arbitrarily make your life substantially more difficult by climbing directly out the bulge. Can be done statically or dynamically. Test your skills and determination on this tough variation! 💢

17. Farewell Dear Leader SDS V3 star

Start with both hands on low crimps, then climb the overhanging face. Embrace the power moves and enjoy the steep challenge! 🌩️

18. Cantilever V2 star

Start with both hands on the undercling, move to the jug to the left, and find your way up. Exclusion: The moss and whatever is under it. Navigate the climb mindfully and revel in the ascent! 🍃

19. Torpedo Bay V2 star

Start with both hands on the undercling and make your way along the underclings to the right. The moss is excluded here too, but there is a useful hold on its edge. Traverse skillfully and appreciate the unique movement! 🌿

20. Confidence SDS V4 star

Start sitting, both hands on arête, and do balancey moves to keep yourself on the arête. Improve your balance and precision on this delicate route! ⚖️