Sector 1 (The Corners)

SECTOR 1 (THE CORNERS)

The first main bouldering area you encounter walking west from the Warm-up area. A diverse mix of problems on walls and roofs.

Problems 19
11 2 0 0 %
V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10 V11 V12 V13 V13

Grades V1 - V8

Seasons

Morning shade but unfortunatley often wet until the sun hits it. Smokey and the bandit cave is a great summer option. Predominantly crimpy holds on Community Service make this one of the more reasonable summer lines. The slopers in the Optimus Prime Corner are the greasiest holds in Nova Scotia in the summer.

Drive 47 min
Approach 650 m, 13 mins

Community Service Corner

The very first main bouldering area. A v-shaped nook, just around the corner from the main Optimus Prime Corner

1. Community Service V7 star

Start matched in the slopey dish, traverse left along the middle seam and topout the far corner. Smaller climbers will enjoy this more. Can be done in reverse. Adapt and thrive! 🌱 (FA Nick Sagar 2003)

2. Your Worst Enemy SDS V3 star

Climb the rails to tricky topout.

3. White Rabbit SDS V4 star

Start on the lower crimps, then fun little dyno to the ledge. Tricky mantle to secure topout on the upper ledge. Launch yourself!

4. Short Man's Dyno SDS V4 star

Start left hand side pull, right hand crimp. Work up to second seam, then small dyno to the ledge. Tricky mantle to secure topout on the upper ledge. Rise to the challenge!

5. Todd's Slopey Forehead V3 star

Start on the huge juggy ledge, climb up the corner on good holds to high tiered finish. Reach new heights!

6. Air Force One V1 star

Climb the featured face on crimps to bulge topout. Keep pushing forward!

7. Iceberg V1 star

Traverse the edge then topout the blocky feature. Embrace the journey!

Greasy Jungle Roof

Located on the hilltop slab just above the Optimus Prime wall 30 meters past the Community Service Corner

8. Greasy Jungle V6 star

Start on jugs under roof, pull up and out onto edges, dyno up front face to jug and top out. Bring a good spotter as the landing slopes down sharply and is often wet. Leap with confidence! 🚀

9. Bloody Arête V8 star

Meat hook the arête and do something. The name is concerning... Proceed with caution! ⚠️ (FA Sonnie Trotter 2002)

10. Nuthin' But Gravy V4 star

Begin in crack, then tricky compression moves out roof to scrunchy lip encounter. Left boulder is excluded. Get creative! 🧩

Optimus Prime Corner

Problems on high walls and very low roofs located 50 meters west past the Community Service Corner

11. The Great White Lobster V8 star

Start with left hand crimping top of mini jug, and right hand in roof seam. Climb out short roof. Left slab is out. Very tricky beta. Crack the code! 🔐 (FA Tim Kemple 2004)

12. Voltron V4 star

Begin on edges and go straight up to gain slopey lip, traversing up and back into topout for Transformers. Transform and rise! 🤖

13. Transformers V4 star

Up finger crack. Committing finish. Trust your instincts! 🦅

14. Optimus Prime V6 star

Up left arête and across lip to top out. Undercling underneath lip is out cause rules. Bring a good spotter - swamp is in for the landing. Navigate carefully! 🐊

15. Ghost In The Shell V7 star

Climb the arête all the way up to finish on high slab topout. Jug crack from the V1 is excluded. Embrace the challenge! 👻⛰️ (FA Ben Smith 2015)

16. Sack Up V1 star

Go up the broken dihedral to the left of Optimus Prime. Mostly unpaddable with insecure moves at the top. Not to be attempted by V1 climbers. Choose wisely!

17. Born Of The Water V8 star

Start on the undercling rail and climb the sweeping feature above the enigmatic emerald lagoon. (FA Ben Smith)

Smokey and The Bandit Roof

Just around the corner from the Optimus Prime Corner is a very low roof home to a quality problem.

18. Fulcrum SDS V4 star

Begin on low holds at rightmost end of the cave, reach up and back to triangle hold, pivoting around and up to jugs to top out. Neato! ➰

19. Smokey and The Bandit V8 star

Start middle of the back wall under cave, grip flat sidepulls, swing legs, and mantel out with gusto! A powerful lowball delight! 💪 Venture further—roof and slab await between Smokey & Fulcrum. Embrace creativity! 🎨 (FA Ghislain Losier 2003)