Area 51

AREA 51

A sheltered gully in the middle of the LOC. A mixture of tall walls and a large boulder.

Problems 16
4 4 1 13 %
V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10 V11 V12 V13 V13

Grades V0 - V10

Seasons

This area has wind protection from all north winds and good southern exposure. Project it in the late fall and early spring. With a north wind and sunny day, this is the warmest winter climbing location in Nova Scotia.

Drive 55 min
Approach 900 m, 17 mins

Snake Bite Boulder

Small thin boulder with a unique lean

1. Relocated Saliva Glands V2 star

A problem for the slab lover. A delicate and balance-intensive climb that will appeal to those who enjoy slab routes. 💙

2. Snake Bite SDS V6 star

Climb the arête, using lots of body tension. A challenging problem that requires strength and focus. Be prepared to sacrifice some skin. 🔥

3. Loosy SDS V1 star

Located on the backside of the same boulder containing Relocated Saliva Glands. Start sitting on the ledge and climb up. A simple and enjoyable problem for climbers of various skill levels. ⬆️

Corridor Outcrop

Tall problems along a long vertical outcrop

4. Bhoota V0 star

Climb the giant holds up the corner to a crux topout. A problem that mixes large holds with a more challenging finish.

5. Surface Detail V10^*unconfirmed star

Follow the good crimps to a high crux sequence. A very aesthetic line that climbs with a wonderful crux sequence. 🌟 (FA David Quinn 2022)

6. It's a dirty job but somebody has to do it V7 star

Begin on the crescent-shaped sidepull and navigate a cryptic sequence to reach the seam. Grab the sketchy, loose jug and then fire to the top. A problem with a mix of technical moves and mental focus. 🌙

7. Bouldering Virgin V0 star

Climb the right-most diagonal crack. A classic crack climbing problem that will test your technique and endurance. ➡️

8. First Crack SDS V0 star

Climb the left-most diagonal crack. The first problem climbed in LOC. A historical problem that offers a classic crack climbing experience. ⬅️

9. One Last Dance V4 star

Start in the thin, horizontal crack. Execute big moves straight up the face on wonderful small crimps. A climb that tests finger strength and precision on tiny holds. 💪

10. Jack and the bean stalk V3 star

Climb the arête all the way to the high point with a flat face crimp. A pumpy and airy problem that demands endurance and focus. 🌬️

11. Antoine's Problem V0 star

Climb the tall low-angle slab. A more relaxed problem for climbers looking for a break from the more intense routes. 🏞️

Kleos Boulder

A very large boulder that is the most striking feature of Area 51

12. Jaune Jaune Citron V6 star

Start at the left end of the large boulder behind Snakebite. Traverse the lip to the right, topping out all the way at the bottom as for La Mer a Boire. A challenging traverse with an exciting finish. ➡️

13. La mer a boire V9 star

Grab two small crimps and make a big move to the slopey lip and top out. Pinky levers help with this one. A savage problem that requires explosive power and fingertip strength. 🚀 (FA Ghislain Losier 2002)

14. Kleos SDS V9 star

Compress up the steep prow to a committing top to earn kleos. A bold problem that tests your mental fortitude and climbing skills. 🦾 (FA Nick Sagar 2002)

15. Bawl Higher V5 star

At Kleos Boulder's hidden gem, hop on the block 4ft right of the arête. Tiny holds lead to a thrilling top sequence (hello, jug)! Bring fab spotters and mega courage!

Swamp Blood

Small boulder below the main cluster. Not pictured.

16. Swamp Blood V3 star

If you are really desperate for a new V3, this climb is found on the small boulder in the swamp below Area 51 towards the Scoop. A hidden gem for climbers seeking variety in their V3 repertoire. 🌳