Sideshow

SIDESHOW

Topo By Tristan Cleveland

A recently-developed area with a number of first ascents still available. It is located directly on the left at the very start of the trail to Porcupine Fortress.

Access Issue: The landowner requests that we not climb there during deer hunting season, the last Friday of October to the first Saturday of December.

Bob and Doug

Note: The landing for this boulder sometimes gets wet when the water table is high. Best in dry conditions.

1. Sideshow Bob V2 star

Traverse up the arret. Most of it goes smoothly, but the middle part can be tricky. (Hint: try a heel). An optional sit down start adds variety.

2. Doug V4 star

Begin at the flake and follow the seam across the rock face, topping out with the far arret. . 🔀 (FA: Ben Rose. For a harder variation, not yet sent, exclude the second arret)

0. McKenzie in Space V0 star

Start at the large slot and climb the arret. Variation: eliminate the arret and climb directly over the apex for a very different V2 problem. ↔️

The Gym Wall

3. Road Trip V2 star

Begin at the large jug, climb upward, and shift to the other wall when convenient. (For a likely V3 variant, climb directly upwards). 🆙

4. Day Trip V1 star

Start at the large jug and climb under the overhang before heading upwards. A nice overhang challenge! 🎢

0. Acid Trip V0 star

Begin at the flake and find your way over the overhang. A good problem for practicing overhang technique! 💪

5. Up, Up and Away V1 star

Start at the ledge, traverse left under the overhang, and follow the crack up to top out. Multiple variations exist. Add six feet of traverse by starting on the crack on the wall further to the right, or mix it up by exiting early on other problems. Great for warming up or practicing endurance without a rope. 🔄

0. Down Under SDS V1 star

Sit start on the rock below the crack on the left, like a chair. Climb Up, Up and Away in reverse and top out on the ledge on the right. A fun problem with a unique start! 🛋️

0. Whispering Wind SDS V0 star

Sit start with a positive left side crimp and right on edge. Use balancy moves and a layback to get on your feet and then climb to the top. A problem that tests your balance and technique! ⚖️

6. Spring is Here SDS V4 star

Use the obvious flake and the nearby rail (FA: Samson Mifflin)(on its left) to start. Move left to the small but good crimp and head upward from there. The landing is bad: stack crash pads to create a flat surface. There's concern the starting flake may break, but it currently supports body weight. Risks aside, it's a lovely, clean problem. . 🌟

The Double Agent Wall

7. Double Agent SDS V4 star

Begin with small crimps on the bottom face of the rock for a low sit down start (the bigger crimp is just at the edge of the arret). Lunge up to the rail and execute a scrunchy heel hook to reach the top. A powerful problem that rewards strong climbers! 💥

8. Top Shelf SDS V3 star

Start with both hands on the rail and follow the crack to the top. A classic crack climb! 🌄

9. Everything I Hoped It Would Be SDS V2 star

Begin at the large, obvious hold and follow the jugs to the left. A jug-haul delight! 🤲

10. Alias SDS V3 star

Start at the large flake (it might budge a bit, but it's actually completely wedged in there). Climb the jugs and crimps to the top and move right until you can top out. Exclude the soil and whatever is under it. A nice problem that requires a bit of trust! 🙏

Clockwork Wall

0. Rooftop V0 star

Climb the slab. A straightforward, no-frills ascent. 📈

0. Gear Grinder SDS V0 star

Start with the large jug and head upwards. Simple and satisfying! 🆙

0. Kraftwerk SDS V2 star

Begin on the lower set of jugs and traverse to the end of Clockwork. A fun journey through some great holds! 🕰️

11. Clockwork SDS V3 star

Start with both hands anywhere on the large chunk of rock jutting out of the wall. Consider using a heel to get off the ground. This problem feels strange until you get the beta right, then it all makes sense! 🧩

12. Stairway to Heaven SDS V0 star

Climb up the jugs. A nice, jug-filled climb that's great for beginners or as a warm-up. 🤲

Detour Boulder

This boulder is about 30 feet beyond Clockwork down the hill next to the marsh. The trail has not been cut yet so this detour currently requires a bit of bushwhacking.

13. Detour V3 star

Start on the large jug under the overhang on the right. Use the good feet to move leftward under the overhang and then reach up for the jug around the corner. Follow the crimps, jugs, and slopers to the very top. The problem is still a bit chossy despite our best efforts to clean it, but with enough climbing, it should get worn down to its fundamentals and can get the star it deserves. 🌟

14. Detour Direct SDS V3 star

Begin on the same jug and climb directly up the face of the rock, topping out at the very top. Exclude the rock ledge on the right, including everything below it on that face of the rock. A challenging problem that requires commitment and focus! 💪