Owl's House

OWL'S HOUSE

A wooded area, less sheltered than you'd like. Half of Nova Scotia's hard climbing lives at Heffalump, the rest lives here.

Problems 16
6 4 2 0 %
V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10 V11 V12 V13 V13

Grades V4 - V12

Seasons

Hard grades and hard slopers make this a bad life choice in the summer. Decently sheltered and very best in late fall / early spring.

Drive 35 min
Approach 700 m, 14 mins

1. Mama Bear SDS V7^*unconfirmed star

Sit start with left hand on broken corner, right hand crimp in middle of face, and climb the left arête. A huge flake broke off the arete in 2024, significantly changing the climb. Try it again for the first time!

2. Papa Bear SDS V9 star

Start on low crimps, enjoy wonderful moves across the face to a satisfying finish - then topout Grizzly. 🐻 (FA Nick Sagar 2005)

2a. Papa Bear Left SDS V8/9 star

The topout of Papa Bear is arbitrary. The original finish resulted from old beta before the backstep jump was discovered. It's more natural and consistent to exit left. Challenge yourself with this alternative finish for a fresh experience! 🔄

3. Grizzly SDS V10/11 star

Starts with left hand side-pull and right hand undercling. Prepare for burly moves as you compress your way up the arête, leading to a tricky top out. Challenge your strength and technique on this demanding problem! 💪 (FA Nick Sagar 2006)

4. Kodiak SDS V11 star

Combine the 🐻 Grizzly with Papa Bear Left for a bear-y fun adventure! (FA Ben Smith 2014)

5. The Bridge SDS V12^*unconfirmed star

Mix the wild Grizzly with the nurturing Mama Bear for a technical pumpy climb to remember! Significantly harder and unrepeated since Mama Bear break. The first ascent post break will be a serious acomplishment. (FA Ben Smith)

6. Honey bear V10 star

Kick off on face crimps at the gully's far left, shimmy across edges, and conquer the arête with a grand finale on Last Chance! 🎉 (FA Nick Sager 2006)

7. Last Chance V10 star

Match on the low jug and navigate some tricky moves. Boldly scale the arête and reach the top, but watch out for that landing! 😬 (FA Nick Sagar 2006)

8. Goldielocks SDS V4 star

Begin on a generous shelf, work with sidepulls and thin crimps, and power through the bulge. Brace yourself for a dusty slab topout!

9. Ride The Tiger V7 star

A delightful treat for slab enthusiasts! Kick off with a snazzy comp-style foot-on-volume-undercling combo. Balance your way through a hands-free pistol squat. Boost those feet and reach for the one true hold. Stay pumped for a thrilling, crystal-dancing finale on a lofty, rolling slab. Ride the Tiger climbs straight up the slab. A variety of easier varations are possible trending left (with and without the crack).

10. Distraction V8 star

Grab the low rightr sloper with good thumb catch, and left on a tiny crimp sidepull. Thuggish compression or gnarly crimps up the arete for a magical ride to the top! Desperate and skin intensive. (FA Sebastian Pacey-Smith 2023)

11. Magic Bus SDS V4 star

Ascend the tiny ramp, pull the roof, and celebrate as you top out those twin seams. Super cool moves and rare outdoor volume climbing! 🦸

12. Dramatic Exit SDS V8 star

Start in the low corner, work up volume, gain roof crimp and crux exit up center of overhang. Burly bulge wrestling!

13. The Hourglass SDS V10 star

Launch from the cave's bottom left crimps and employ subtle skills to move right. Wrap it up with a grand finish on The Ear! (FA Ghislain Losier 2008)

14. The Ear V6 star

Rise from underclings, grasp the ear-shaped jug, and muster your courage for the crux topout! 🥇

15. Winter of Our Discontent V9 star

Left hand anywhere around the corner, right hand on the obvious face hold. Tackle this technical, overhanging arête with a heart-pounding jump at the top over a death landing!

"Best V9 in NS. Yeah I said it." - Ben Smith (FA 2015) 🤸