Duck Head

DUCK HEAD

One of Nova Scotia's most picturesque bouldering destinations that is only a shadow of it's former glory, but still has lots to offer the adventurous climber.

Problems 10
2 4 0 0 %
V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10 V11 V12 V13 V13

Grades V0 - V8

Seasons

Seaside and fully shaded for the first half of the day makes this an excellent destination for summer bouldering.

Drive 31 min
Approach 3200 m, 64 mins

Roof

Located directly above the Tall Boulder

1. Roof Problem SDS V1 star

Starting under the roof sitting on the giant lower boulder, begin on a big jug. Embrace the strength and power of the climb! 💥

Tall Boulder

A small taste of the high problems that used to dominate the Duckhead area

2. Warm-ups V1 star

Climb the well-featured side of the giant boulder. Lots of variations. Explore the possibilities and have fun with the route! 🗺️

3. Donald Duck V0 star

Right side of the high slab. Ascend with grace and enjoy the movement! ⛰️

4. Sou'wester V3 star

A fun climb if tall, elimination, bulging slab is your thing. Big jug to the right of the top-out is supposedly out - that's the rules. Test your skills and enjoy the challenge! 🎯

5. Loony SDS V4 star

Hard start from crimps with a high dangerous victory lap. Push your limits and celebrate your achievements! 🏁

X-rated Roof

Located underneath the tall boulder. Duckhead used to be home to the finest collection of roof climbs in Nova Scotia. Unfortunately, this is the lowest quality of the bunch, but is the only one remaining.

6. X-Rated SDS V6 star

A little taste of what Duck Head offered in its former glory. The blocky pinch broke in 2018, slightly raising the difficulty, and slightly lowering the quality. Reflect on the past and grow! 🦆

Hydropower Boulder

A detached boulder that used to be part of the coastal walls and roofs. Collapsed and spit in half by a hurricaine that destroyed Duck Head, but gave us a small consolation.

7. Blakney's Corner V3 star

Up face at the end of the big boulder. Embrace the height and enjoy the climb! 🌁

8. Fog Burner V1 star

Nice high slab climbing on thin edges. Test your balance and precision as you ascend! 📏

9. Velvet Fog V0 star

Beautiful feature and unique climb on fresh granite. Follow the large rail to an exciting topout. Enjoy the picturesque setting and exhilarating finish! 🌄

10. Hydropower SDS V8 star

Starts underneath the overhanging face of the boulder, compress your way out and then transition to face/arête for a tall finish. Challenge yourself and experience the thrill of this route! 🦾 (FA Ben Blakney 2011)