BOULDERING AREAS
MAP
A concentrated area of beginner climbing much closer to the campsite than the main sectors.
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Problems 26

6 1 star 2 0 %

V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10 V11 V12 V13 V13


Grades V0 - V10

Seasons
Evening shade make this one of the very best summer spots on the island. Stone slinger with a sea breeze, predominantly crimps, and evening shade is one of the very best hard climbs to work in the summer.

Drive 47 min
Approach 400 m, 8 mins

Warm-up Wall

All of the follopwing problems are located on the wall as you follow it down and around the corner
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1. Crack Right V0 star

Climb the first crack. Start strong and enjoy the journey! 💥       
2. Crack Left V0 star

Navigate to the top of this crack on sharp holds and jams. Embrace the challenge and stay sharp! 🔪
3. The Coffin V1 star

Compress up the feature. Squeeze and ascend! 🗿                       
4. The A-Frame V1 star

Climb the crack. Stay focused and power through! 🚀       
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5. The Knob V1 star

Walk up the slab using the big horn and leaning edges. Face holds only; resist the urge to use the arêtes. Balance and finesse! 🎭
6. Agent Orange V0 star

Face and crack. Master the art of multitasking! 🎨       
7. Agent Orange in your crack V1 star

Tall crack to the left of Agent Orange. Reach for the sky! 🌤️       
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8. Orange Arête V2 star

Layback and smear your way up this rolling arête. Flow with grace and control! 🧘
9. Stretch Abstrong V1 star

Climb the left arête and face. Eliminate variation without arête is very morpo. Can be done as parkour. Adapt and excel! 🌟
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10. Deadend Slab V4 star

Balance your way up the tall slab on small holds that face the wrong direction. Scary stepped landing. Keep calm and climb on! 😱
11. Learning curve V1 star

Climb the slab. Steady progress wins the day! 🐌

Man of Action Boulder

A detached boulder at the end of the warm-up wall that features harder problems and warm-up area classics
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12. Man Of Action V10 star

Nova Scotia's World Cup-esque climb! Power up a dihedral, tense moves to undercling, crux dyno to rail. Fully committed - no V3 holds. Embrace the thrill! 🏆 (G. Losier 2003)
12a. Man Of Action - Var. V9 star

Multiple variations have been done using the right crack for hands or feet which changes the this classic climb into a static lankfest. 🫤
13. Waste Management V3 star

Sacrifice your pads and follow the crack over the puddle. Embrace the challenge and get wet! 💧
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14. Jugular Traverse SDS V2 star

Start on the lowest seam at the base of Man of Action. Long pumpy traverse right to left along seam to top out above Behave. Blocks underneath are out. Persevere and overcome! 🦸‍♂️
15. Jugular Vein SDS V3 star

Awkward crux sit start gains vertical crack and climbs seaside face boulder to deceptive topout. Embrace the uncertainty and rise! 🌊
16. Jugular Face SDS V0 star

Akward start matched in the vertical seam, to underwhelming slabby face. Embrace imperfection and find balance! ⚖️
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17. Behave SDS V6 star

Start underneath roof with hands jammed in horizontal crack. Hug backwards, out of roof, and up face using arête. Sharp and addictive. Get hooked on the challenge! 🪝
17a. Bearhave SDS V7 star

Link-up starting Behave then transition into The Bear arête out of the roof. Low variation climbs better. Combine your skills and conquer! 🔗 (FA by Chris Richardson)
17b. Metanoia SDS V9 star

Great climb, but it has some rules. Link-up starting Behave traversing into Shadow in Motion through low pinch on The Bear. Arête is out. Follow the rules and reap the rewards! 📏 (FA Ben Smith 2014)
18. The Bear SDS V4 star

Hop on two sweet crimps, zip up the arête, and push through the powerful pinchy crux. Delight in a jug finish on Dover Island's ultimate V4. A Dover Island rite of passage - embrace tradition and excel!
19. Shadow in Motion SDS V9 star

Start as for The Bear but go left on thin edges up face to a dyno finish. Arête is excluded. Defy expectations and soar! 🦅 (FA G. Losier 2003)
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0. Dirtbag Casual SDS V4 star

Start sitting at the far end, and traverse the Lip to rock-over mantle to finish. Stay low and go with the flow! 🌊

Stone Slinger Roof

Located 25 meters away from the warm-up area, back towards the campsite and below the sea cliff right by the ocean
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20. Out of Gas SDS V7 star

Start low on the slopey rail with a satisfying toe jam, climb out to the tall finish above jagged sloped talus. Climber must not fall. Stay committed and focused! ⛰️
21. Stone Slinger SDS V10 star

Hop on the jug, power through the roof's core, and launch a thrilling throw to the lip! Ascend the face's heart with zest. Dare to commit, embrace the challenge, and skip easier exits! (FA G. Losier 2004)

Stone Templars

Mini dihedral 10m south of Stone SLinger Roof.
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22. Stone Templars V3 star

Climb the dihedral over a bad landing. Be safe and prevail!