Sector 3 (The Roofs)

SECTOR 3 (THE ROOFS)

Dover Island's finest selection of roof problems

Problems 19
5 4 0 16 %
V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10 V11 V12 V13 V13

Grades V2 - V10

Seasons

Primo in the spring when sea spray is less of an issue, but still on of the best summer options on Dover. Copious amounts of all day shade under large roofs, and the entire area is shaded until mid day. Often damp in the early morning from sea spray in the summer, but most holds are reachable for drying.

Drive 47 min
Approach 850 m, 17 mins

Camaro Crash Helmet Boulder

A small boulder improbably perched between two short walls, tossed up by the ocean. Directly opposite the Main Roofs.

1. Camaro Crash Helmet V8 star

Block is not in. Complex start - left hand slopey rail, right hand sharp crimp undercling underneath bulge, left foot underneath, right toe hook. Do something. Embrace the challenge! 🤔 (FA Ben Blakney 2011)

Main Roofs

The biggest roof feature on the island

2. Nate's Cave Problem SDS V8 star

Start sitting on a giant low ledge, traverse left and come out the face under the short bulge.

"Lowball crux consisting of awkwardly scrunching around a sharp arête, shoving your groin into said arête, deadpointing to a painful hold, then bashing your shins on the bottom lip of the boulder." -Rob Grandy

Push through the pain! 😖

3. Funemployed SDS V3 star

Start on the big jug flake in the middle of the face. Go straight up. Tricky sequence feels morpho, but accessible to climbers of all sizes. Find your rhythm! 🎶

4. Orangutan V6 star

Start on the nose. Go to the short arête to your left. Topout. This has changed over the years. Do it again for the first time. Reinvent yourself! 🔄

1. Superman V6 star

An unpleasant and contrived extension to Orangutan. Take the road less traveled! 🌵

5. Smizzle's Roof V-Project star

Impossible moves out the roof. Challenge your limits! 🚧

6. Horizontal Matter V10 star

Ledge launch, heel-toe jam. Roof-crimps, lip dance - wow! Traverse face, scale crack. Skip White Trash holds - embrace fun!

6a. Horizontal Transform V8/9 star

Get ready for a playful climb! Try a lower difficulty version of Horizontal Matter by taking the White Trash exit. The sooner you grab those holds, the easier it gets. It's your call - what's your choice? ⚖️ (FA Ben Blakney 2011)

7. White Trash V7 star

Great compression roof problem to difficult lip transition. Start on slots on the back wall of the roof, go out roof then top out corner. This problem has so much intricate beta. Master the moves! 💡 (FA Nick Sagar 2002)

7a. White Trash Matters V8 star

Start on White Trash and link into Horizontal Matter. Pointless and gross. Push through the struggle! 💪 (FA Ben Blakney 2011)

8. Tourist Attraction V6 star

Starts on low holds with block in for feet. Out roof to ledge and TO slab. Reach for the skies! 🏔️

8a. Tourist Trash V-Project star

Start on Tourist Attraction, traverse thin seam and exit out White Trash. A halfway variation has been done, but the full line is the project. Connect the dots! 🖇️

9. Highway 101 V2 star

Starts on the right wall and climbs up the corner to finish up high crack. Awkward landing prompted problem to be named for an infamous NS highway with a high fatality rate. Proceed with caution! 🚧

10. One Way Street V4 star

Up slopey rails. Unpaddable crux at 1/2 way mark with a reachy move on slopers. Top 1/2 sequence has secure hands and feet, but absolutely must not fall. Climb with care! ❌

11. Fear Factor V2 star

Excellent and scary. Make sure you can on-sight V2 100% of the time. Even then it's crumbly so you still might die. Conquer your fears! 😱

I Heel Good Roof

A seperate roof feature located 10 meters past the Main Roofs.

12. Pebbles V3 star

Climb the featured face. Find your path!

13. I Heel Pebbles V10 star

A compression line under I Heel Good and Pebbles. Its starts right hand on a slopy side pull and left hand compressing the bottom left of the fridge feature. You compress your way over and up the fridge and finish left on the fin of I heel good. Squeeze tight! 🗜️ (FA Paul Denzler 2016)

14. I Heel Good SDS V7 star

Start on low crimps in cave and climb out seam. Broken hold at the lip has increased the difficulty somewhat especially for shorter people. Kneepad would help. Adapt and overcome! 🦾

15. Our American Brothers V3 star

Jump start to sloper on lip. It used to have a block underneath which help the start. Tricky. Take a leap of faith! 🦘