Peninsula Boulders

PENINSULA BOULDERS

A remote sector of Grover, but home to many climbs of exceptional quality as a reward for those motivated enough to make the approach.

Problems 13
5 3 1 8 %
V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10 V11 V12 V13 V13

Grades V0 - V9

Seasons

Sheltered woodland climbing best in cold season. Trail Blazer is exceptionally sheltered for extreme cold climbing, but seeps, so conditions need to be dry or it will be encased in ice.

Drive 33 min
Approach 2500 m, 47 mins

The Hunted

A lone boulder on the northern tip of the peninsula in a beautiful birch grove.

1. The Hunted SDS V8 bench

Start in the horizontal crack. Crux start up arête, then bust out onto face and grab the wide pinch before gaining the lip and topping out. Landing is bad, but topout is a jug haul. Easier if tall. (FA G. Losier 2004)

2. Click Click Bang SDS V7 bench

Sit start on the jug rail at the bottom of the mini-dihedral. Tricky scrunch fest inside the dihedral. Fun highstep topout.

Black Beast Area

Unique climbing in the heart of the peninsula

3. Black Beast SDS V5 bench

Start matched on flat block, big move up and behind you to lip, then go up arête and top out on left side of boulder. Definitely one of the best for the grade.

4. Belly of the Beast SDS V6 bench

Begin on pinch at far right of leaning horizontal crack, traverse left on painful holds into Black Beast. Very cool. (FA Ben Blakney 2011)

5. Hinterland SDS V4 bench

Start sitting with both hands in jug crack. Climb straight up using tricky sequence to gain jug rail for high topout at apex.

6. Backwoods V3 bench

Start matched on the good hold at chest height. Climb the face using amazing holds the whole way up to high finish. A good spotter is advised until the flakes prove solid.

Deep Wood Boulder

A tiny boulder very close to the black beast area.

7. Deep Wood SDS V4 bench

Start matched on the excellent hold. Climb straight up using arête and slightly overhanging face.

Trail Blazer Area

As the name suggests - the final frontier of the Grover Peninsula. A far approach but the reward is worth it.

8. Trailblazer SDS V9 bench

Start matched on the jug, bust out to left arête, then compress and crimp your way to the top. A variety of high starts have been done for reduced difficulty and quality. (FA G. Losier 2004 / David Quinn 2022)

"Not starting matched on the jug is a hate crime against bouldering aesthetics." - Ben Smith

9. Smizzles Abandoned Project SDS V-Project bench

Climb face and arête. Landing and topout needs some work.

10. Hunter's Blind SDS V0 bench

Start sitting on left side of the hole, matched on lowest rail with a right heel. Climb out and up face on amazing jugs the whole way.

One Pansy Fairy Boulder

30m west of the Trail Blazer Area.

11. One Pansy Fairy SDS V5 bench

Start on low jug rail, big move to right crimp gaston, then lip. Variation matches gaston and exits top of boulder.

13. The Incut Face - Left SDS V3 bench

Start on the positive rail, contrived scrunchy moves across face crimps then exit dirty arête.

14. The Incut Face - Right SDS V3 bench

Start on the positive rail and climb straight up.