Main Loop

MAIN LOOP

An extensive wooded area. Long approach, but the most concentrated quality mainland bouldering in Nova Scotia

Problems 42
15 8 5 7 %
V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 V7 V8 V9 V10 V11 V12 V13 V13

Grades V0 - V11

Seasons

Several microclimates in this extensive area. The Dilemma and Player of Games get good west wind and leafy trees provide shade for good summer time conditions, but very exposed in the winter. Further down the trail Refined Line area is very sheltered and is a primo cold weather and winter spot, but is swampy and humid in summer. Everything is good in the shoulder seasons.

Drive 33 min
Approach 2000 m, 38 mins

A Hard Goodbye Boulder

The first very small boulder you encounter on entering the forrest

1. A Hard Goodbye SDS V5 star

Begin sitting at the low left corner. Left hand on a thin side pull, right hand on a low crimp on the face. Work through some initial awkwardness to get established, then finish up the arête. Find your balance! ⚖️

Dilemma Boulder

A tall narrow boulder part of the Green Jug cluster.

2. Dilemma SDS V9 star

Left hand on arête, right hand on roof crack. Engage in burly compression out of the short roof to a tricky transition into the tall crack. 💪

"Dilemma is awesome. It's probably my favorite climb in NS" - Jen Wright (FA by G. Losier 2004)

Green Jug Area

The large boulder high on the hillside. Very exposed to west winds.

3. Green Beans SDS V4 star

Sit under the Green Jug and climb up to it. The boulder on the left is off-limits. Stay focused! 🚫

4. Green Jug V4 star

Start on the obvious corner jug and traverse left on pleasant holds to finish matched on the big jug. The jug used to be green before chalk bleached the mildew. A crowd favorite for sure! 🥳

5. Green Arête V7 star

Begin matched on the low corner jug, climb the arête, and mantle into the scooped feature for a high, scary finish. Hold on tight! 😱

. V star

7. Conan Cracks it Up V1 star

Follow the crack system to a high top-out. The top is secure on large holds, but make sure it's clean. Safety first! 🧹

8. One Shot One Kill V6 star

Begin in the crack. Climb up using the crimp rail and arête sloper. Top out straight up for full value, or bail left to top out Conan's crack if feeling sketchy. The top is secure but relies on a hollow flake - pull down, not out! Proceed with caution! ⚠️

9. One Way Up V0 star

Climb up the short corner. Only slightly harder than the downclimb. Keep it simple!

Squeeze Job Boulder

Small boulder directly above Banana Warm-up

10. Squeeze Job SDS V4 star

Start matched on the flat hold in the low left corner, traverse the slopey lip to a fun top-out. Enjoy the ride! 🎢

Player of Games Boulder

Stay high on the ridge and head south along the main trail to find the next 6 areas.

11. Banana Warm-up SDS V0 star

Traverse the wonderful scooped feature on excellent holds. Savor the movement! 🍧

12. Transitions V9 star

Begin standing and climb the aesthetic scooped face to a tricky top-out. The stand was done before the full line was completed, and there is no obvious midway starting point - anything you can reach is fair game. Warm up those muscles for the full line! 🔥 (FA G. Losier 2007)

13. Player of Games SDS V11^*unconfirmed star

Sit, begin at base of mini dihedral. Move up Nova Scotia's finest technical moves. So many betas! Feels change with temps. Beware the west wind! 🌬️. (FA David Quinn 2023)

14. Wet Banana SDS V7 star

Sit on the rock and balance up the face. A great climb with a bad landing. Tread lightly! 🚶‍♂️

Eskimo Games Boulder

15. Eskimo Games V4 star

Climb the left arête using crimps on the face and top out at the high point. A quality problem with delicate, balancy moves. Find your balance! ⚖️

16. Eskimo Games SDS V7 star

Score 3 additional V-points for a tricky sit start. Climbs well. Challenge accepted! 🏆 (FA Ben Blakney 2004)

17. Grover Warm-Up SDS V0 star

Climb up the arête on the right using positive edges and jugs. Great holds and pleasant balancy moves. Enjoy the flow! 🌊

Elephant on My Back Boulder

A giant boulder cluster

18. Elephant On My Back V8 star

Start with both hands underclinging the seam. Climb the face and arête to a tricky high finish. Does the top-out feel like you have an elephant on your back? Conquer the beast! 🐘

19. Balls Deep Project V? star

Jam, thrutch, and shuffle your way up the progressively widening crack to a crux top-out just when you're too tired to continue. Supposedly confirmed possible on a rope. Bring a change of undies. Hold on tight! 😅

20. Attitude Adjuster V8 star

Start with right hand on side pull and left hand on a tiny crimp. Climb up the vertical face using pinches and pockets. Get a grip! (FA David Quinn 2022)

21. JP's Bulge SDS V2 star

Start matched in the horizontal crack. Climb over the bulge with a neat mantle. Keep it smooth! 🌄

22. Bulge Project V-Project star

Looks sharp. Proceed with caution! ⚠️

1. Sean's Arête V0 star

Up the arête. Ascend gracefully! 🦅

1. Sean's Face V1 star

Up the dirty face. Get ready to clean! 🧹

The Roach Boulder

A small boulder with a single line

23. The Roach SDS V3 star

For full value, lay down start matched on the lowest rail. Climb the short face on wonderful holds. Lots of options, have fun with it. Enjoy the variety! 🎉

Refined Line Area

24. Fine Line V9 star

Begin standing with a good left-hand pinch on the arête and right hand on a tiny crimp just beside it. Climb the arête. Stay focused! 🎯 (FA Nick Sagar 2004)

25. Refined Line SDS V11 star

Beautiful and captivating line up the overhanging arête and face holds. Start with left hand low on the arête, right hand on the crimp rail. Sustained hard climbing using the arête and tiny face crimps. Embrace the challenge! 💪 (FA David Quinn 2021)

26. Lichen Line V3 star

Climb up a series of wonderful rails to a high finish over an unpaddable bad landing. As the name suggests... needs a brushing. Clean it up! 🚿

The Saucer Boulder

The Saucer boulder is direcly beside Refined Line. A great warm-up

27. Saucer Traverse V4 star

Aesthetic traverse on pleasant holds. Enjoy the journey! 🏞️

28. Saucer's Dyno V1 star

Grab the beautiful jug and make a small move to the lip. Savor the hold! 🖐️

1. The French Sit SDS V6 star

Awful hard scrunchy start with a small left-hand side pull. Get compact! 🦔

1. Used To Be Good SDS V5 star

Left hand on arête, scrunchy awkward start, to a low-quality terrible finish. The name is meant to be ironic - this climb is truly terrible. Climb at your own risk! 😬

Sciences Feminines boulder

Turn left at Refined line, and located about 20m direcly east.

29. Sciences Feminines V7 star

Left hand side pull, right hand small crimp. Find the balance! ⚖️ (FA by G. Losier 2004)

Yukon Cornelius Boulder

Contiunue on the trail past The Refined Line down the swampy section 50m to fine this Massive Boulder

30. No Conscience SDS V7 star

Start on the low jug, crimp up the face and arête to an exciting slab finish! The large protruding feature to the right of the opening moves is off. Stay on track! 🛤️

31. Yukon Cornelius V3 star

Unique double gaston start, climb up face crimps to a tall slab finish. A very good climb. Challenge yourself! 🤩

32. Klondike V4 star

Standing on the lower boulder for reach, grab the lip, rock over, and climb up the dirty slab. Reach for the sky! ☁️

33. Translate This V4 star

Standing on the lower boulder for reach, traverse left and link into Yukon Cornelius. Connect the dots! 🌌

34. Soiled V3 star

Climb up the tall face on big holds, avoiding a barn door to your death at the top if possible. The best of its grade in Nova Scotia. Stay safe! 🌠

The Pocket Problem Boulder

Turn right at The Refined Line and follow the trail west down the hill to access the remaining boulders.

35. The Pocket Problem SDS V5 star

Start sitting with a low left-hand side pull and right hand in a unique pocket. Enjoy pleasant moves on unique features and make a big move to the lip. Savor the experience! 🌟

36. The Caboose SDS V0 star

Use underclings and lip to traverse and top out left. Great top out for the grade. Crack-only is a fun variation that goes at V3. Explore your options! 🌈

The Dry Shine Boulder

37. The Dry Shine SDS V5 star

Start with the left arête and right undercling. Perform tricky moves up the arête. Master the technique! 🧩

38. Cool Ass V6 star

Start with underclings. Fire out left to a crimp, then up. Power through! 💥