July 6 2022
We were out at the crag, sweating in the blistering sun, and I'll tell you what - Ghislain's Robotic Mode 5.13c is one hell of a climb. It's an endurance nightmare, that's for sure. But Jen? Jen is a force to be reckoned with. Her ascent was nothing short of impressive - cramming an absurd amount of microbeta into the opening crux sequence. Thirty moves in the first ten feet of the traverse, followed by a shakeout that lasted over a full minute! And then, like it was nothing, she continued on for another thirty moves, followed by another ninety second shakeout, and finally, the V3 exit. All in all, it was a total of sixty-seven moves and over five minutes of climbing. Insanity! Now, let me tell you - out of the 1141 Mobeta videos I've seen, this one is the longest by far (that doesn't involve alcohol-related night soloing). And Ghislain may have given this problem a boulder grade, but there's no denying that this is a route. But you know what? Watching Jen take on this beast was nothing short of inspiring. She attacked it with everything she had, using every ounce of strength and technique at her disposal. And in the end, she emerged victorious. It was a truly epic climb, and I feel privileged to have witnessed it.