May 29, 2022
I've had this idea for awhile about a stupid trifecta of boulders that consist of a single move where you dyno to the lip. My list was Trap House, La Mer A Boire, and Big Dreamers. Now that I've completed the list, I can tell you that Trap House is by far the best one, and Big Dreamers is by far the hardest and least pleasant. If you set this problem in a gym, you would be fired on the spot. It's one awkward move where you pull as hard as you can on some of the sharpest holds around. The key beta is figuring out which crystals dig better into skin and which dig better into tape.
So you have to wonder why a person would spend days working on that one move. When you pull on those two sharp holds, you can't help but marvel at the combination of glacial action, ocean storms, and freeze-thaw cycles that crafted this one move that sits right at the limit of my physical ability. It's not exactly a fun move in the traditional sense, but it's mentally engaging and emotionally rewarding in its own way. And it just happens to be placed in one of the most beautiful climbing locations I've ever been to. It's never going to be a popular problem, but maybe every few years someone will come along and try to pull on those holds. I hope they bring lots of tape.