Jan 18, 2021
Low carb diets are fashionable these days, but Guillaume has returned from France in Beast mode - so I'm heading straight to LF Bakery and loading up on baguettes. Mick Levin showed us the secret of the demon arm on his impressive second ascent of Heartbreaker V9, and beta master Jen Wright convinced us climbers of any size could harness the demon (and that a sprinkle of rain was, in fact, helpful). After quickly sussing the top, I went straight to send goes and learned the lesson of heartbreaker - falling off the balancy upper slab after the crux.
Guillaume showed off his Fontainebleau style (where every problem has a crux topout) and floated up the next go.
Not often these days I'm inspired to dig deep for a send, but Guillaume opened the portal, so I got over my heart break and hopped on for another try. The portal is now wide open, with the beta firmly established, I expect this beautiful line to get much love in the coming years.