Dec 06, 2020
For me, this is without question the most exiciting send of 2020 in the Nova Scotia bouldering scene. Sincere congrats on an impressive send. Sean summarized the experience nicely on his instagram:Have you ever walked up to an overhanging rock with no hand holds and thought "I think I can figure out a way to climb that"? @smizzle2000 Ben Smith has. He's the master, and we're all walking in his shadow. This problem has special signficance for me, so I'm glad to see it finally repeated. Originally the Humble Pie project, Ben and I worked the improbable blankness together at Heffalump in the late fall 2013. Humble Pie, because that is what you eat on the tricky crux move that requires endless rehearsal. If feels good. Then impossible. Good again. And so on. Temp dependant to an unreasonable extreme.
Ben likes to have multiple reasons for his problem names. The day Ben sent Look to Windward was the windiest, coldest day of climbing I've ever experienced. Hiding under the back of Heffalump between goes to escape the savage wind with the SportCat.Sean confirmed that wind is a key ingredient in success on this climb: "the two non-holds that are only usable (for me) with a strong wind, no sun, and a dew point below 0 celsius."
Gentile or Jew O you who turn the wheel and look to windward, Consider Phlebas, who was once handsome and tall as you― T.S. Eliot, The Waste Land