Oct 18, 2020
Earlier this summer, my brother (Teth Cleveland) and I hacked a new path to Porcupine Fortress. I’m happy to hear more climbers are now visiting the spot. It’s a special place, with a path that winds through tiny gaps between big boulders, and a spectacular view of a lake to reward you when you finish climbs. It also has amazing climbs, including my favourite V4 in Nova Scotia, Confidence.
PSA: Please note that the landowners request that people not use the trail going to Porcupine Fortress during hunting season, Friday October 27 to December 2nd. I developed a few new problems at Porcupine Fortress this summer. One in particular is worth highlighting: Step Function V3 (FA: Ben Rose). It involves a big reach out to a crack on the right (or rather, the jug formed by the crack), and then working up slopers on the left while the crack on the right gets smaller. Most of the problem, however, is in the footwork, since there is a giant gap where you would like to put your feet. It’s a fun little puzzle. Also, the top-out is refreshingly not sketchy, with a positive edge to grab onto. We’re still working on a harder variant to Step Function, which I invite you to try out. In this version, you start under the overhang and make a huge reach out to the crack, pinching it while you (desperately try to) get your body up and around the overhang. Then it gets harder. It’s probably a V4 or V5. Give it a try and let me know if you send it.
The other new problems are mostly warm-ups or a good challenge for beginners: Log Rhythm V1, Algae Rhythm V0, and Torpedo Bay V2. My favourite of the bunch is Cantilever V2. While it’s a bit of a two-move wonder, the big move to the left is satisfying, and I find it highly recreational to go fully horizontal. All-in-all, the new additions help round out the spot as a good destination for climbers of all levels, with solid problems ranging from V0 to V8. Developing problems is an extremely fun hobby. Thanks to Patrick Spaceman for letting me post here about it, and thanks to Teth Cleveland and Ben Rose clearing the trail and working beta with me. Enjoy and keep sending.